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experience with 1.8t turbo upgrades

  
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experience with 1.8t turbo upgrades

 
MFEBBO MFEBBO
User | Posts: 130 | Joined: 08/06
Posted: 01/10/07
08:58 AM

So there are tons of companies out there doing turbo upgrades for Volkswagens(and Audi's) 1.8t. We ahve all seen all the dyno sheets and heard all the claims, but now I would like to hear people talk about actual experience.

How do they operate on a daily basis, is there a big difference in lag? How did your gas mileage change? Have you had any issues with the new turbo? Let it all out and give us real opinions.....  

 
Balboa455 Balboa455
New User | Posts: 10 | Joined: 05/07
Posted: 06/05/07
08:29 AM

Any ideas on tuning the 2.8 V6 with some forced induction? I have a Passat 6 speed manual and man do the revs come on lazily. There is almost no tuning availability (at least that I can find) on this motor. I am growing tired of the lazy revs and I may be forced to trade it in for a GTI with the 2.0T. At least I know there is a lot I could do with that. I am actually afraid of that...I will probably go broke. But any ideas would be cool if you know of any...
*** I like my mods to be stealthy...no carbon fibre wings on the back of my Passat. That would not be cool. That is ok on a WRX.  

 
turbo_20v turbo_20v
New User | Posts: 3 | Joined: 11/07
Posted: 11/27/07
11:09 PM

I built a car (337) for my Brother / business partner, who is the "business guy" and definantly NOT a grease monkey. It uses Unitronic software, a garret gt30r, some of our drop in forged connecting rods (www.intengineering.com), and a host of other stuff. It is his ONLY car, literally, if it breaks, he walks, and he doesn't do much walking

It is dead reliable, the worst we have had was a greddy BOV that kept shredding diaphrams- switched to a Tial, no problems since. I knew I should have done that in the first place but was talked into the greddy by a friend. Had to replace stock clutch which didn't last too long once we put the rods in and cranked up the boost.  

He puts down 345-350whp on 91 octane, no water methanol injection, nothing fancy at all. The car is totally sleeper, in fact it looks like every other 337 with a front mount. On race fuel, he put down 423 whp, I'm changing the fuel pump out (Walbro--> Bosch), adding some nitrous, and going back for 5xx whp. This is a bone stock motor, with a set of drop in connecting rods. We did have to change the clutch and fuel pump, odviously.

The car makes full boost at 4500 feet altitude by 4k, 3800ish if its cold out... But you can get 6-10 psi, enough to rip past cars on the freeway, even in 6th at 3k- just takes a few seconds to build. With the clutch, motor mounts and such we are using, this car is totally streetable. Odviously, this is quite a difference in powerband from the factory turbo- but personally, I can't stand the peaky factory turbo. There is tons of powerband to work from 3800 to 7500 rpm, so it really isn't an issue.

Gas mileage is the same as factory, unless you romp on it, then you lighten up the fuel tank in a hurry- takes fuel to make power, you know.

Couple of pics for a magazine thing which never happened (low-res):



 

 
inao4gli18t inao4gli18t
New User | Posts: 1 | Joined: 07/09
Posted: 07/13/09
03:57 PM

Nice car, most people don't believe this much hp can be had out of a 1.8t motor. The only thing you didn't mention is how much was spent on the build. I have $8000.00 in my Gli and I'm still running a stock turbo. Atp makes a kit for the 1.8t but I'm told its unreliaable.  

 
josephkevin josephkevin
User | Posts: 50 | Joined: 09/09
Posted: 09/04/09
03:54 AM

Turbo upgradation is very important.  
BMW Hybrid X6 2009 BMW  Wheels

 
llanu llanu
New User | Posts: 1 | Joined: 10/09
Posted: 10/22/09
06:43 AM

well i was at work bored off my ***
so i wanted to plot out a few compressor maps...
i did the e40, e50, e60, gt61, gt66 and gt40 50trim.

now with that said... ill more than likely add all the misc info later when i have more time online.
now all of the maps are at 22.5 psi
with a couple maps plotted at 25psi and 22.5
i will also be adding a 20psi plot soon...
VE 1.15
and thanks to new337 for the gt40 50trim plot.

First off we have the E40, should be a snappy little devil.
your typical t3 exhaust options, BB options or 360degree thrust options for all other turbos as well.
spooling info: well they range, on a 1780cc 1.8t look to reach this 22.5psi no later than 4500rpm on all non-ball bearing units outfitted with a .48a/r stage 3 turbine section.
now the e40 and 50 will spool sooner than the e60 im sure... so your llooking at 10psi@ say 3300, and 20psi before 4k for the most part...
based on turbine configurations.
Keep yoour HP goals around 300bhp-450bhp.

next is the famous t04e 50trim .50a/r compressor combo.

next is something no one i know of has tried... but the T04e 60trim compressor with .60a/r cover.

thats it for the t3/t04e options, yes i know i left out the 57trim. but thats comeing soon...
all t3/t4e applications can be sourced in the following links:
The PrecisionTurbo line
Innovative Turbo systems Street heat line
CheapTurbos.com T3T4 garrett turbos
Turbonetics T3/T4 and others.

Next we have turbo's for those that plan to maybe do a solid lifter setup in the near future...
the GT40 50trim and 54trim.
should get to full spool with a T3 turbine confiiguration of .63a/r stage 3 or 5 around 5,000rpm-5200rpm non ball bearing.
should flow enough to produce well over 500bhp.

Next we have the GT66 and GT61 compressor configuration.
these beasts should support some series numbers as well, and not ment for those with the 7k redline.
power comes on rather late, but when it does im sure its like a sock in the face!!!!
so here are the maps.

that is the gt61

next is the gt66

all three can be sourced from the ITS link in my Signature...
or from other links above.

this is not all the info... more info and plots to come...
GT30, GT35, T04e 57, GT28rs, and Turbine maps as soon as i complete them.
So happy hunting for that perfect turbo.
also an explaination on Plotting your own compressor maps is on its way as well.
until i get the detailed info here is a basic outline

the whole line of garrett GT turbos...
basicly your looking at getting this 22.5psi through different ranges depending on the turbo configuration.
each map is labled Generic Viagra...
this post should be used as a reference to help yoou draw a conclusion on which turbo best suits your goals...
there are so many other ways to display plotted compressor maps... everything on these are set values for better/accurate comparisons.

also i will note again... its obvious on some of these turbos you will not make 22.5psi by 3k... its just plotted for reference.

these are pretty basic maps, just to help you along the selection process....
PS i did include the GT2540... it is mapped out based on the 25/28 exhaust setup.
so here it is.


EDIT:: maps being added to original post:

for you 60-1 believers there it is...


and i couldnt find the super 60 but here is a 60trim.


A compressor map is created under ideal conditions, on a hot gas test stand. These operating conditions would be very
difficult to duplicate in your engine. We utilize these compressor maps as a tool to get us closer to an ideal (compromise) for a given application.

A compressor map is made up by a grid
of pressure ratio versus mass flow in lbs/min showing the different efficiency-islands (shown in %) and speed-lines (RPM) of the compressor.

Pressure Ratio


Pressure Ratio is; Atmospheric Pressure + Boost Pressure divided by Atmospheric Pressure.

Example given is for sea level:

14.7 psi(Atmospheric Pressure) + 14.7 psi(Boost)
D I V I D E D B Y = 2:1Pressure Ratio
14.7 psi(Atmospheric Pressure)

Mass Flow, LBS / Minute
As a rule of thumb, we calculate 10HP / lb air mass flow @100% Volumetric Efficiency, on gasoline powered applications.

You need to estimate how much horsepower (mass flow) your engine is going to make (horsepower goal), then divide this number by 10 (gasoline @ 100% VE), this will give you the mass flow in lbs/min, this number is applicable to the horizontal numbers on the compressor map.

You also need to know the boost pressure you are going to be running at your horsepower goal in order to calculate the pressure ratio (see formula above), this number is applicable to the vertical numbers on the compressor map. It is now possible to find the spot on the map that the compressor will operate at the instant your engine is at the given (power & boost) operating parameters. The idea is to stay to the right side of the surge line and stay within the highest (average) efficiency islands in the operating range of the engine. Another consideration is not to excede the choke flow of the compressor, as this will put undue strain(overspeed) on the wheel and it will create more heat due to the lower efficiency.

An engine is dynamic in operation and in reality it takes hundreds of calculations like this to fully utilize the compressor map, and you still need to test it all in the vehicle to verify the turbocharger / engine match.

Edit: the damn large gt61 map is annoying...

EDIT:
now if you want to plot your own maps... at your own VE, or your own whatever here are the formulas

first off find your pco

PCO=boost+Atmospheric pressure+IC pressure drop

next is PR= pco/14.7psi(aka atm pressure)

next is air density aka Di
Di=(boost pressure + Atmospheric pressure) / Rx12x(460+post IC temps)
R=53.3 in all cases

next is Mass flow rate aka Mf
Mf = (Di x displacement in cubic inches x rpm) / ( 2 x VE )

now depending on wether or not the compressor map has a correction factor or not, ITS and Turbonetics dont use correction factors on all maps, but Garrett does...

if you find that a correction factor is requiered then use this equation
(rather difficult to explain on a cumputer but here goes nothin lol)

CMf aka corrected mass air flow.

CMf= Mf x the square root of (compressor inlet temps from prior equation in ºR divided by 545ºR), then divide atmospheric pressure by boost pressure before it reaches the intercooler).... so now you have a figure that will consist of XXXºR and the atm/psi before IC
so now divide the two ºR / (atm / psi before IC) and thats your corrected Mf or better known as CMf

now for the R factor... º R = Degrees Rankin how to convert ºF to rankin is simple...
just add 460 to your ºF

say its 85ºF well now just add 460 to it and you have 545ºR
85=545 85ºF is the garrett standard... and i typically use 80º as my ambient or 85ºF to make things easier... so basicly in the above equation i divide 545 by its self...
545/545 and that makes things easier...


thats it... all that for one dot on the plot... youve got to do 5 or 6.  

 
MACRO2 MACRO2
New User | Posts: 5 | Joined: 10/09
Posted: 10/22/09
07:09 AM

I love the outdoor stands and as work around the area of Central America on many occasions I have to drive up to 20 hours per day, thanks to this take Viagra Online alone with my 1.8 turbo I can drive comfortably for many hours from capital to capital for Central  

 
Thompson Thompson
New User | Posts: 5 | Joined: 10/09
Posted: 10/22/09
10:33 PM

hey really very nice car that you have built.You must have spend uch in building it  
Thompson Cuban Cigars

 

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