How to Flush the Brakes on a 2003 Jetta TDI

This article describes how a DIY or a VW Jetta owner (Bora in Europe) can easily flush the brake system and save MONEY on professional repairs.

This article and 45 other VW how to projects can be viewed at new and improved Web Site at URL: http://www.vwtdirepair.com

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Project 44 How to Flush the Brakes On a 2003 Jetta TDI


VW recommends the brake fluid should be flushed and replenished every two (2) years or twenty-four (24) months. A technician at a dealership uses a machine to do the job in ten (10) minutes at a cost of $129.00. You don't have such a tool, but you can easily bleed the brake system on your car by fixing-it-yourself.

A brake bleeder (available at auto parts stores) can be used to remove moisture and expel contaminated fluid from the brake system. Simply remove the master cylinder cap, attach the supplied adapter cap, fill the reservoir with brake fluid, pressurize reservoir with pump, and lastly open the bleed fittings at each wheel.

A brake bleeder is a common brake system tool The most common brands of brake bleeding tools are; namely, Vacula, Motive, and other brands sold on-line and auto parts stores.

The steps below show you how to use a brake bleeder pump so that you can save MONEY on professional repairs:

Repair Steps

Step 1 - Drive the vehicle front wheels onto ramps (2).

Step 2 - Place the gear selector in "Park".

Step 3 - Place wheel chocks behind the two (2) rear wheels.

Step 4 - Place an oil drain pan under the passenger-side rear wheel.

Step 5 - Raise the hood and remove the brake reservoir cap by turning counter-clockwise.

Step 6 - Fill the reservoir with fresh Dot 4 VW brake fluid to the fill line.

Warning

Only use original VW brake fluid in your Jetta brake system.

Step 7 - Fill the tank of the brake bleeder pump with fresh Dot 4 VW brake fluid. Figure 44-1 shows the bleeder pump being filled with Dot 4 VW brake fluid.

Filling brake bleeder with brake fluid

Figure 44-1 Filling Brake Bleeder With Brake Fluid

Note

A  Motive brake bleeder pump can be ordered from VW speciality sites on the Internet. It comes with cap adapter and tubing to attach to the brake bleed fittings (See Figure 44-2).

Typical brake bleeder

Figure 44-2 Typical Brake Bleeder

Step 8 - Attach the adapter cap (red) to the master cylinder reservoir. Figure 44-3 shows the adapter cap attached to the reservoir.

Brake bleeder adapter cap

Figure 44-3 Brake Bleeder Adapter Cap

Step 9 - Pump the handle of the bleeder to pressurize the  brake system.

Step 10 - Continue pumping the handle of the bleeder until a reading of 12 to 15psi is shown on the dial of the gauge (See Figure 44-4).

Pressurizing brake bleeder

Figure 44-4 Pressurizing Brake Bleeder

Step 11 - Position the body and drain pan under the passenger-side rear wheel.

Step 12 - Place a piece of plastic tubing (included with bleeder pump kit) on the brake bleed fitting.

Step 13 -Using a 9mm box wrench, loosen the brake bleed fitting by turning counter-clockwise.

Step 14 - The pressure from the pump will force discolored and contaminated brake fluid to enter the drain pan.

Step 15 -When there are no noticeable air bubbles and the brake fluid turns "clear", close the brake bleed fitting by turning clockwise.

Step 16 - Remove the plastic tubing from the brake bleeder fitting.

Step 17 - Repeat Steps 11 thru 16 on the drivers-side rear brake bleed fitting.

Step 18 - Repeat Steps 11 thru 16 on the drivers-side front brake bleed fitting.

Step 19 - Repeat Steps 11 thru 16 on the passenger-side front brake bleed fitting.

Finishing Up

Step 20 - Remove the oil drain pan and tools from under the passenger-side front wheel.

Step 21 - Pour the contaminated brake fluid in a plastic container for recycling.

Step 22 - Unscrew adapter cap (red) by turning counter-clockwise.

Step 23 - Screw on the original brake reservoir cap (yellow) by turning clockwise.

Step 24 - Remove the hoses to the brake bleeder and set pump aside.

Step 25 -Check for a firm brake pedal.

Step 26 - Check for fluid leaks at all four (4) wheels.

Step 27 - Close the hood.

Step 28 - Remove rear wheel chocks.

Step 29 - Back vehicle off ramps.

Step 30 - Road test vehicle.

Tools and Equipment

Ramps (2)

Wheel chocks

Motive brake bleeder

Oil pan

Dot 4 VW brake fluid

9mm box wrench

Shop rags

Paper towels  

thats a great write up... some good info under that link  

Hello to all

Determine how far down the brake pedal normally goes and put a block of wood under it to prevent it from going further down to prevent O-ring damage.  Next using a NEW turkey baster, not a used one so you do not contaminate the brake fluid and system.  Our use my favorite, a large sterile medical syringe.  Clean the outside of the master cylinder and reservoir to make sure no dirt can get into the brake system.  Remove the cap and use the turkey baster to remove as much of the old fluid as you can and top it off with new fluid from a factory sealed container.  Then go to the wheel cylinder that is furthest from the master cylinder.  On most cars that will be the right rear wheel, on the 3rd  generation 4Runner with ABS it will be the left rear wheel.  Apply a 10mm box end wrench to the bleeder valve and a clear tube that goes into a collection container and you are ready to start.
Tell your helper to apply pressure to the brake pedal while you open the bleeder valve.  Have your helper tell you when the pedal is against the block of wood and hold it there until you close the valve.  Let him know to let the pedal up.  It is important that he allows it to come all the way up for a few seconds while the master cylinder refills.  Keep going until you see nice new clear fluid free of bubbles coming out of the bleeder valve.  Stop and move to the next closest wheel to the master cylinder and so on until you get them all.  It is very important that you never let the level in the master cylinder reservoir drop below the MIN mark or you may get air into the system and have to start all over again.  Once you complete the last wheel, top off the reservoir and go for a careful test drive.  If the brakes are mushy that means you got air into the system and have to do it again until you get it all out.  Now you are done until next year.

Thanks for sharing  
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